[Motorcycle Diaries - North India]

Onto the plains of the Indian state Punjab and the city Amritsar, with the large Golden Temple, home to the Sikh religion as the Vatican is home to the Catholics.

I had always imagined the Golden Temple to be simply a temple and not an entire complex including accommodation and a community kitchen that serves free meals 3 times a day to anyone, Sikh or not. The marble, with inlay of coloured stones and the mirroring of architecture has a beauty and grace comparable to the Taj Mahal. The large pond in the centre of the temple complex radiates a peacefulness that revives my soul after having to crash through the crowded and all too chaotic city streets.

We didnt expect to stay so long. Then suddenly we re-connected with our dream to ride a motorcycle through India. And thus started a new adventure for us. Buying a bike literally opened doors for us.

Once we were away from the tourist traps we met so many wonderful and helpful people. We had met the district magistrate to enquire about obtaining an Indian motorcycle license, and we ended up having dinner with his family. Sure, it was a little more formal by our standards but their kids loved it. Once we had troubles with our bike and we visited the first available mechanic. He spent a good hour on it, fiddling with the carburettor and spark plug, and because he couldnt solve the problem he didnt want to accept any money from us. Another time we had trouble looking for a steel welding shop. The tea (chai) man who works at night offered to come on the back of my bike the next day and he directed me through the city to our desired shop.

On the other side of the coin it has been really slow and frustrating in organising ourselves and the bike for touring. Confusing and often contradictory information from various people, the insurance agent who promises us a policy within 2 days that slowly turns into 7.

The BIKE. It is a 2006 model Machismo Enfield, a single 350cc thumper. What she has in good looks she lack in performance. (Max: 18Bhp, 27Nm torque) The brake technology is still from the 1950's, and for a 350cc it barely reaches 100km/hr, whereas a newer Indian made 150cc will do 100km/hr. But like the earlier models of Harley Davidsons the Enfields have a brand image that is hardly based on their reliability or performance history. But Enfields are currently the biggest bike in India and probably the only bike that can carry 2 people plus 2 extra backpacks. Thus we have an Enfield.

So we wont be travelling fast, (but that is nothing unusual here), I think on average we will make 30-50km/hr. But given the road and traffic conditions here that is fast enough, especially in our T-shirts and absence of helmets. Unfortunately, you have to ride like everyone is an idiot. They simply dont look, many vehicles dont even have rear view mirrors for christs sake. As I wrote earlier; (25th January) one can expect anything on these roads...

So after 3 weeks in Amritsar and hours of running around- we and the bike, now fitted with luggage racks, are ready to go. Tomorrow we head east towards Rishikesh.

I guess my biggest impression over the last 3 weeks is how we have met genuinely helpful people at the right time. And how many free cups of tea or soft drink bottles we have shared with Indians, simply in the joy of hospitality.

With the wind in our hair and the sun in our face we both look forward to travelling away from the busy tourist cities and into the country side.

>>Top.. ..Home
Give your response in my Guest Book.